Hello, fellow travelers! Do you know of a place that pulls on your heart strings full of adventures and and every rock holds the story of an ancient world? If not, pack your bags with a curious mind and comfy shoes! We are visiting Port Blair, the heart of Andaman and Nicobar Islands. This place is not only known for Chicken curry and stunning beaches with blue waters… Oh no! There is also a deep story to be told during the British colonial reign shall we say the Cellular Jail.
Time travel with me to breathe in the scent of the ocean and imagine what the world used to be during Port Blair and the India’s struggle for freedom. It’s truly mesmerizing. To experience and connect with those stories of the fight for independence and the fiery spirit of patriots, visit once in a life time. Grab yourself a cup of chai to warm you up, get cozy, and off we go find every little secret of the island capital.
The Notorious “Kala Pani”: Revealing The Cellular Jail
Cellular Jail is my first place to visit and perhaps the most touching place to visit. You might have heard it called “Kala Pani”, which translates to “Black Waters.” This dreadful place was infamous throughout the British Raj as a one way ticket to nowhere for Indian freedom fighters.
Peering into an Ominous History:
This enormous prison was built between 1896 and 1906. Consider that for a moment, more than a decade’s worth of work, most of it brutal and probably conscripted. The British specifically selected this isolated archipelago to cut off political prisoners from the mainland and revolutionary networks. The design of the jail itself tells us why it was built. It is a huge building 3 stories high with 7 wings extending from a central watchtower like bicycle spokes. Each of the 693 cells could be monitored from the central tower. It was a single guard’s job to control all of them. Remarkable, yet disturbing, wouldn’t you say?
Each cell was cramped, measuring 13.5 feet long and 7 feet wide with a solitary ventilator perched on the wall. The goal was absolute silence, no interaction, no communication, devoid of company, unthinkable silence, only emptiness. The inmates did not just languish in captivity; they faced extreme grueling labor. Imagine oil milling, coir pounding, and rope making under the Andaman sun.
Rations were scarce, the medical attention provided was barely adequate, and any form of incompliance was met with extreme consequences.
You can now amble through different parts of the building; a certain weight follows you as the still air wraps around your body. Imagine the moments and the fortitude that these walls have witnessed alongside the despair and anger which was deeply woven within. Trying to fight back would only peak human endurance, to flicker like a candle against wind.
With enduring legacy of the nation, these prominent faces include: Batukeshwar Dutt, Savarkar, Stylkar and plethora of others who selflessly shaped India’s identity. Not only their stories but plaques are displayed throughout the place detailing their conviction paired with love for country.
The Light and Sound Show – A Must-Experience
It is recommended that you do not miss out on attending the Light and Sound Show while visiting the Cellular Jail as it remains one of the region’s premiere attractions. The show artistically relates the saga of the jail as the setting for a profoundly distressing and heart-rending story. The emotionally charged voice of the old Peepal tree, the lights, and the music transport you to the time of the prisoners, helping you relive their horrors. Every person has a different take away but it remains undeniable that feelings of warmth accompanied by sorrow will flow through you. This is a lesson of history, a mark of honor, and a strong contemplation of how inexpensive life is.
Additional Tips for the Visiting Cellular Jail
- Business Hours: The Jail is open every day (except for national holidays) from 9:00 AM – 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM – 4:45 PM.
- Prices: It is chargeable on entry, and purchasing a ticket for the Light and Sound Show is mandatory. Particularly during peak periods, advance bookings for the show is strongly encouraged.
- Guides: There are guides available for hire at the entrance that will delve into the history with you providing personal narratives that bring the subject to life. These stories often are left out from guidebooks making such narrations delightful.
- Time Allocation: For a full exploration of the jail complex, set aside at least 2-3 hours, and 1 hour for the show.
- Manifold Demeanor: This is of course a memorial, and dignified conduct is expected. Avoid loud conversations, littering, and any disrespectful behavior.
Beyond Bars: Port Blair’s Colonial Footprints
Though the Cellular Jail is perhaps the most glaring symbol of the British Era, Port Blair is sprinkled with other relics from the period. The British established a penal colony here in 1789, but it was abandoned due to disease. They returned in 1857, largely to harness Indian Prisoners-of-War from the Indian Mutiny (or India’s First War of Independence). This time, they set up permanent residence and turned Port Blair into the admin center.
Ross Island: The Parisian Capital of Yesteryear:
A short boat ride from Port Blair takes you to Ross Island (or Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Dweep). This served as the British administrative headquarter for the Andamans. Picture this… a little town bustling with life, which was frequently referred to as the “Paris of the East” (it certainly had the charm to earn such an ambitious title!).
Ross Island: Ancient Ruins Which Are Beautiful In Their Own Way
Now, Ross Island is an ancient ruin which is beautiful in its own way. It still features impressive colonial bungalows, a church, a water treatment plant, tennis courts, and even a cemetery, all of which are slowly being taken over by nature. Through the brickwork, roots of large fig trees snaking and creating an atmosphere that is both enchanting and eerie. It is increibly photogenic.
Feeling Lost in Time
As you wander about the crumbling buildings, the echo of tea cups and laughter from garden parties seem to fill the air. Roaming freely amongst the ruins are the surreal beauties of deer. As you explore, a small museum awaits that offers some historical context along with a bakery where from time to time, bread is freshly baked. To add on, a light and sound show sketches out its story, focusing on the zenith of British control over the island.
Chatham Saw Mill: A Living Relic
Another fascinating colonial relic is the Chatham Saw Mill. Established in 1883, it’s one of the oldest and largest sawmills in Asia. It stands as a testament to the British exploitation of the islands’ rich timber resources. The mill was crucial for the colonial administration, providing timber for construction both locally and for export.
Surprisingly, it’s still working! There is an option for you to walk through and see how wood is processed both traditionally and using modern tools. Within the complex, a museum contains different wooden pieces, the history of the mill, and various items related to forestry and logging. Dusty and loud as it is, the place provides a glimpse into the colonial industrial side of the country. A bomb pit, which is a leftover from the Japanese mill bombardment during World War II, serves as one more reminder of the islands’ turbulent history.
Aberdeen Bazaar Colonial architecture:
Walk around Port Blair’s commercial center, Aberdeen Bazaar. It might be an Indian market now, but some remnants of colonial buildings still exist, like the slanted roofs and oversized balconies, or even a bit of Art Deco. The clock tower (or Ghanta Ghar) is a major landmark and unlike most of the Indian markets, it provides a good glimpse into everyday life without overwhelming tourists as well as a good variety of items.
The Anthropological Museum: Understanding the Indigenous People (and Colonial Impact)
The Anthropological Museum may not be a “British colonial site” in the traditional sense, but it certainly helps to frame the narrative of such a site. It helps us understand the lives, cultures, and communities of the indigenous tribes of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands – Jarawas, Sentinelese, Onges, and Great Andamanese. British colonization wrought great destruction upon these communities through resettlement, disease, and significant population decline. This museum endeavors to offer a balanced representation of their customs and the difficulties they have endured and continue to endure. It underscores the point that the colonial narrative is not solely about the confrontation between British and Indian nationalists; these islands’ peoples were profoundly impacted long before.
Unveiled Treasures and Stories Untold
Port Blair has always been portrayed as an area of deep colonial history. However, it offers some untouched pathways and narratives which enlighten forgotten pieces of history:
The Japanese Bunkers:
These are the remains of the Japanese bunkers which are located near Ross Island, on the way to Corbyn’s Cove beach and scattered around Port Blair. During 1942 to 1945, Japanese forces occupied the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. These concrete bunkers scattered around the islands are stark remnants of the complex warfare history surrounding the islands. They provide an alternate insight towards the experiences of warfare Port Blair underwent.
The Viper Island Gallows:
Viper Island holds older and grimmer colonial tales than the frequently visited Cellular Jail. The ruins of the japan gallows jail build stand docile and are quite secluded. However, the site possess a deeper history than whats portrays on ground level. Viper Island by boat is quite picturesque and said to have been named by HMS Viper or due to Vipers presence on the island. These gallows, despite being deteriorated stands as a stark reminder of the wrath faced through violent laws.
Local Stories and Oral Histories:
Speak and listen to local people, especially old ones. They may tell you personal or family stories that provide wonderful insights into life during and after the colonial period. These stories will not be found in history books, but instead will help one understand the region much better.
The People and Their Resilience
Port Blair is today a lively mix of people. You can find descendants of the early settlers, who were mostly ex-convicts, Indians from the mainland who came here for jobs, and of course, the native tribes who lived on these islands for hundreds of years.
The people share a unique history of struggle, and this sense of shared adversity has created a remarkable sense of community. People are generally warm, friendly, and welcoming to visitors. Hindi and English are spoken widely, making communication easy. Port Blair has continually demonstrated exceptional resilience, having endured colonial rule, Japanese occupation, and natural disasters like the 2004 tsunami.
A Taste of History: Food in Port Blair
As you visit various places of interest, you can definitely indulge in some good food too! Undoubtedly, Port Blair has best of South Indian and Bengali cuisines, not to forget the Andamanese with an abundant variety of fish dishes.
Seafood, Seafood, Seafood!:
Being an island, savoring the catch is paramount. Grilled fish, Prawn curry, crab curry… the list is truly endless. Fernandos at the Port Blair Airport, the Pavillion, and Kumarman’s at Aberdeen Bazaar, and even closer to Corbyn’s Cove serve delicious seafood.
Bengali Treats:
The succulent sweet and spiced dishes that many Bengalis endorse such as Rasgulla, Sandesh, fish curry (Macher jhol), and many more are courtesy of a booming Bengali populace (many of whom were refugees).
Identifying PortBlair south indian population is quite easy, with people serving idli, dosa, and filter coffee.
While easier to find in local Andamanese cuisine restaurants, try to find bamboo shoots and island tubers dishes. Also, make sure to ask the locals for recommendations.
Coconut water, fruit chaat and local snacks are sold by vendors around cellular jail and ross island jetty.
The availability of certain ingredients due to trade routes long ago influence the food, while the spices could have been brought over by settlers, fishing techniques could be passed down through generations.
Actionable Advice for Your Heritage Tour to Port Blair
Let’s give you some practical suggestions to enhance your experience for the better:
Best May to Visit:
From October to May, Port Blair has pleasant weather, making it an ideal time to visit. The islands are calmer and easier to navigate. Monsoon season from June to September should be avoided if possible, as heavy rains could hinder trips.
Getting Around:
Auto-rickshaws:
By far the most ample method of transport within Port Blair. These backed auto scooters can be seen in most corners of the city. Always agree on the fare before starting, these dudes have a nasty habit of cheating tourists.
Taxis/Cabs:
“Cabs and taxis are good for comfort and to travel to longer distance areas. They can be hired at any time.”
Scooter/Motorbike Rentals:
“These are very ideal ways of touring the area as one can go at their own time and pace. One must have a drivers license and must wear a safety head gear. Scooter/Motorbike Rentals”
Ferries:
“Ferries are the only option if you want to go to Ross Island and Viper Island. Government ferries are cheaper, however they are more crowded. Private ferries on the other hand are quicker and more comfortable but more expensive. It is important to get ferry tickets in time prior to peak season.”
Accommodation:
“Port Blair has a wider choice of low price guest houses and mid priced hotels, along with higher priced resorts. I suggest trying to book a place near Aberdeen Bazaar where you can shop, eat and transport easily.”
Connectivity:
“In general, mobile phone services in Port Blair are acceptable. Data speeds, however, remain very slow. Most hotels and some coffee shops offer Wi-Fi, but their speeds are below average.”
Permits:
Indian nationals do not typically need permits for traveling to Port Blair and the adjacent islands, including Ross Island. However, for certain tribal reserve regions that are protected for conservation purposes, some very limited tourism permits are issued, and these are seldom granted. Foreign nationals require a Restricted Area Permit (RAP) which is normally obtained from the Port Blair airport. Always check the latest regulations prior to your travel.
Dress Code:
The Region’s tropical climate calls for light, cotton garments. As a mark of respect, visitors must cover their shoulders and knees when attending religious ceremonies and the Cellular Jail. Walking shoes are essential.
Andaman Islands are known for their exquisite natural beauty and ecological delicacy. Alongside shell collection restrictions, littering, plastic waste, and coral collection is strictly discouraged, along with adherence to island customs. Photography is limited in tribal zones and museums so permission must always be asked prior to snapping photos.
Cash is King: For smaller vendors and auto-rickshaws, as well as more remote areas, a cash-only policy is commonplace. While some larger establishments do accept cards, carrying cash is always a good idea. In Port Blair, ATMs are available.
Embrace the Pace: The phrase “island time” does exist, and for many, it moves at a much more relaxed pace. For those in need of a break, embracing the slow hustle and bustle is recommended.
More Than Just a Destination: A Journey of Reflection
Sightseeing in Port Blair, particularly the Cellular Jail, is not only an act of visiting, but a deep emotional and historical experience. It allows individuals to ponder over the freedom sacrifices, the harsh reality of colonialism, and the unwavering strength of humanity.
Beyond stunning snapshots, visiting Port Blair offers a chance to bask in beautiful memories alongside the whispers and echoes of history, brave tales, and an appreciation of the countless freedoms we often overlook. Monuments like the Cellular Jail serve as a grim reminder of our history, but more importantly, they illuminate the circumstances endured to achieve these dark realities and the hopes for a brighter future.
So, are you prepared to uncover the secrets that Port Blair has to offer? Do you wish to stroll the streets where freedom fighters and colonial officers walked? This island capital has a rich history that is hoping to be unearthed by inquisitive explorers like you. Have a splendid time exploring, and may every moment of it be meaningful and unforgettable!
Port Blair is the capital city of Andaman and Nicobar Islands, and it is associated with India’s history, especially during the period of the independence struggle. During the reign of the Britishers, the island city was used as an important base and bore the burden and valor of political inmates who were sent to the Cellular Jail, also known as Kala Pani (black waters). Visiting these sites is a window to the colonial past of the country and the region.
Let me provide you with a short overview of the history of different sites in Port Blair along with their importance, main features, visitor information, and travel recommendations.
1. Cellular Jail (Kala Pani)
Port Blair is well-known for the historical monument of Kala Pani. Constructed from 1896 to 1906, this jail gained notoriety during the British rule as a place where political prisoners were isolated, exiled, and tortured. The sparse geography made escape utterly impossible. Therefore, most prisoners received extremely brutal treatment here.
History and Significance
Once, this jail had seven wings with a watchtower in the center. It was designed to serve as a Panopticon for maximum imprisonment. Currently, only three wings remain.
Alongside countless other Indian prisoners, famous political figures such as Veer Savarkar, Batukeshwar Dutt, and Yogendra Shukla were also kept here.
While imprisoned, they were subject to the most cruel and unusual punishments, including extreme torture, incessant physical labor, and servitude.
Highlights
Central Watchtower
Port Blair and other surrounding territories can be viewed from the prison’s central watch tower.
Freedom Fighter Galleries
Besides the cough-inducing artifacts that are displayed in the galleries, they also contain letters and portraits of the fighters showcasing their never-ending struggle.
Light-and-Sound Show
From the jail’s perspective, the light-and-sound show dynamically depicts the tales of inmates with eloquent narration. It stands as a stark reminder to us of the incalculable sacrifices prisoners made to achieve independence for India.
- Show timings: 6:00 PM for Hindi, 7:15 PM for English
- Cost: ₹150 per person
Visitor information:
- Entry fee: ₹30 per person
- Available hours: 09:00 AM – 12:30 PM & 01:30 PM – 05:00 PM (Closed on national holidays)
- Position: Atlanta Point, Port Blair
Tip:
Light-and-sound shows are held in the evenings, so arriving in the late afternoon allows for tour-site exploration beforehand.
2. Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island)
Formerly the administrative headquarters for the British in the Andaman Islands, Ross Island, now known as Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island, was a colonial settlement that thrived until it was abandoned due to a large earthquake in 1941. Now, it stands as an intriguing blend of ruins and nature.
History and Significance
The island contained important British establishments, such as a church, a hospital, officers’ quarters, and a bakery.
It remained a symbol for much of British dominance and wealth in the area until parts of it were taken back by nature.
The island was part of World War II history when Japanese forces occupied it.
Highlights
Colonial Ruins
Vines and trees have overtaken many remnants of colonial structures, creating a beautiful and haunting atmosphere.
Japanese Bunkers
World War II-era bunkers showcase a piece of the military history surrounding the island.
Deer and Peacock Sanctuary
Located on the island are the friendly deer and peacocks which can be seen wandering the ruins.
Visitor Information
- Entry Fee: ₹50 per person
- Boat Ride: ₹300 – ₹500 per person (round trip from Port Blair)
- Timings: 8:30 AM – 4:00 PM
- Wear sturdy sneakers because the island is uneven and there are many ruins to explore.
Viper Island
Wrecked near the island was HMS Viper, which gave the island its name. It is also historically known as the site where political prisoners were imprisoned and executed before the Cellular Jail was built.
History and Significance
The island features an execution ground with an associated gallows, making it a place of significant historical violence.
It was used mainly to shelter freedom fighters actively resisting British administration in the colonial era during the earliest years of the Indian independence movement.
Highlights
Gallows Ruins
Chilling remnants of the island’s role in the punishment of dissenting residents.
Scenic Views
This island, despite its dark past, provides calm views of the open sea and the mangroves around it.
Visitor Details
- Price of Admission: Viper Island is included as a stop-over in the boat tour packages priced between ₹300 to ₹500.
- Boat Ride: Departures from Phoenix Bay Jetty.
- Operating Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM.
Suggestion:
An entire day of history would be spent by visiting Viper Island and taking a tour of Ross Island.
