Haunted Legends of Port Blair: Myths of Ross Island and Cellular Jail

Whispers from the Past: An Introduction to Port Blair’s Haunted Charm

Port Blair, the vibrant capital of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, sits gracefully at the southeastern edge of the Bay of Bengal. It’s a place often imagined as a sun-drenched paradise, with some of the world’s clearest beaches and untouched marine life teeming with never-before-seen underwater creatures. Yet, beyond this idyllic facade of a “dreamy archipelago” , Port Blair cradles a history that is both profound and, at times, profoundly dark. The gentle sea breezes that rustle through its palm trees seem to carry echoes from a bygone era, whispers of colonial ambitions, the valiant struggle for freedom, and events that have etched themselves into the very soul of these islands.  

This unique blend of breathtaking natural beauty and a somber, complex past creates an atmosphere ripe for legends and mysterious tales. While visitors flock to its shores for sun, sand, and sea, a different kind of allure draws those intrigued by stories that linger in the shadows. This journey delves into two of Port Blair’s most historically significant and legend-shrouded landmarks: Ross Island, once the seat of British administrative power, and the Cellular Jail, the infamous colonial prison known as ‘Kala Pani’. Both sites stand today not just as historical monuments, but as canvases upon which tales of the unexplained, the eerie, and the unforgettable have been painted for generations. The Indian freedom struggle forms a poignant backdrop to both locations, with Ross Island having served as the administrative nerve center overseeing the penal system, and Cellular Jail as the very instrument of that system, designed to break the spirit of those who dared to dream of an independent India. It is from this crucible of history and human experience that many of their most enduring myths have emerged.  

Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep): The Ghost of the “Paris of the East”

Just a short boat ride from Port Blair lies Ross Island, now officially known as Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep. Today, it presents a hauntingly beautiful spectacle of colonial ruins intertwined with the relentless embrace of nature, but its quiet desolation belies a vibrant and powerful past.  

From Grandeur to Ruins

From 1858, following the Indian Rebellion of 1857, Ross Island became the administrative headquarters for the British in the Andaman Islands. Its strategic location and proximity to Port Blair made it an ideal administrative hub. Within decades, this small island was transformed into a flourishing colonial township, so opulent and well-appointed that it earned the moniker “Paris of the East”. Imagine grand bungalows, a magnificent church with stained-glass windows, a bustling bakery, a large swimming pool, tennis courts, a printing press, state-of-the-art water treatment plants, and even a grand ballroom where colonial officers socialized. This miniature British town was the epicenter of political and social life for the colonial rulers. However, this grandeur was built upon a darker foundation, as the administrative machinery on Ross Island oversaw the penal settlement, where Indian political prisoners faced inhumane conditions and forced labor.  

The island’s colonial golden era came to an abrupt halt in March 1942 with the invasion and occupation by Japanese forces during World War II. The Japanese fortified Ross Island, constructing bunkers and tunnels, many of which remain as silent witnesses to that period of conflict. During this occupation, many of the original British structures suffered damage. A significant historical event during this time was the visit of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose in December 1943, which later led to the island being renamed in his honor.  

After the Japanese surrender in 1945 and India’s independence in 1947, the British never re-established their control over Ross Island. The island was gradually abandoned. Then, nature began its patient reclamation. Massive, ancient banyan trees sent their roots through walls and over rooftops, enveloping the once-proud structures in a green embrace, creating a landscape described as both “haunting yet poetic”. This slow decay into a picturesque ruin contributes significantly to its mysterious atmosphere.  

A pivotal event that hastened Ross Island’s descent into desolation and is often linked to its haunted reputation was a massive earthquake in 1941. This cataclysmic event severely damaged many of the buildings and reportedly scared away many of the remaining inhabitants. The sudden abandonment of such a developed and lively settlement, turned to ruins by both war and natural disaster, provides a fertile ground for stories of spirits unable to leave their former home. The very specific legend of a British officer’s ghost is directly tied to this earthquake, providing a concrete historical anchor to the paranormal narratives. The visual spectacle of these grand colonial edifices, once symbols of power, now crumbling under the weight of gigantic tree roots, inherently evokes a sense of the eerie and forgotten, making it easy to believe that more than just memories linger here.  

Legends That Linger

The air on Ross Island seems thick with untold stories, and several legends contribute to its reputation as one of Port Blair’s most haunted locales. The most prominent and widely recounted tale is that of a British officer, said to have been killed during the devastating 1941 earthquake. His ghost is believed to still wander the decaying corridors and overgrown pathways of the island, a lonely sentinel amidst the ruins. Many visitors have reported experiencing an uncanny feeling of past human presence, while some even claim to have glimpsed odd specters or felt an inexplicable chill in certain areas.  

Beyond this specific apparition, Ross Island is also burdened by myths stemming from its role in the penal colony system. Locals whisper of a curse upon the island, a consequence of the cruel treatment meted out to Indian freedom fighters and other prisoners who were forced into hard labor to build and maintain the British settlement. It’s believed by some that this lingering negativity brings misfortune to those who dare to disturb the island’s sorrowful peace.  

Adding to the mystery are tales of secret tunnels. Some residents believe that intricate under-earth passages, built by the British during the colonial era, connect Ross Island to other isles in the Andamans. These tunnels were supposedly used for smuggling or other clandestine activities. While concrete evidence for such extensive tunnels is lacking, their legend is likely fueled by the very real presence of underground bunkers constructed by both the British and later the Japanese for military purposes, such as storing ammunition.  

More fantastical claims, such as Ross Island being the location of the lost city of Atlantis, also circulate, though these are generally dismissed due to a lack of any credible evidence. Regardless of their factual basis, these varied myths and legends undeniably enrich the island’s mystique, making it a place where history and folklore intertwine. The “creepy ambiance” often noted by visitors is a potent combination of these stories, the dramatic ruins, and the island’s isolated, reclaimed state. Many of these legends are not just random ghost stories; they are folkloric responses to the island’s layered and often traumatic history – colonial administration, penal servitude, sudden destruction, and military conflict. The deserted buildings are described as “incredibly affecting and devastating” , and it is this powerful atmosphere, combined with pre-existing knowledge of its past, that can easily lead to subjective experiences of the paranormal.  

Planning Your Eerie Excursion to Ross Island

A visit to Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep) is a journey back in time, offering a unique mix of history, nature, and intrigue. Ferries to Ross Island depart from the Aberdeen Jetty in Port Blair, and the scenic boat ride typically takes about 15 to 20 minutes. Exploring the island thoroughly usually takes around 3 to 4 hours on foot, as there is no transport available on the island itself. Key sights include the haunting ruins of the Presbyterian Church, the Chief Commissioner’s House, the old Bakery, officers’ quarters, and the Japanese bunkers that dot the landscape.  

Amidst the ruins, wildlife roams freely. Spotted deer, peacocks, and rabbits are common sights, adding a touch of life to the abandoned settlement. You might even hear about Anuradha Rao, affectionately known as the “Deer Woman,” who dedicated herself to caring for the island’s deer.  

A popular attraction is the evening Light and Sound Show, which vividly narrates the island’s dramatic history, from its colonial grandeur and the 1941 earthquake to the Japanese occupation.  

It’s important to note that overnight stays on Ross Island are not permitted for tourists. The terrain can be uneven and is not particularly wheelchair-friendly, so comfortable walking shoes are highly recommended.  

Table 1: Ross Island (Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep) Visitor’s Guide

Note: Timings and costs are subject to change. It is advisable to check with official sources or local tour operators for the latest information before your visit.

Cellular Jail (Kala Pani): Echoes of Suffering and Unseen Presences

Standing as a grim sentinel in Port Blair, the Cellular Jail, more ominously known as ‘Kala Pani’ or ‘Black Water’, is a profound National Memorial that bears silent witness to India’s arduous struggle for independence. Its very name, “Kala Pani,” carried deep psychological weight for the prisoners. The journey across the “black waters” to this remote penal colony not only meant physical separation from their homeland and loved ones but also threatened a loss of caste and social identity, a punishment designed to strip them of their very spirit.  

A Monument Forged in Pain

Though the Andaman Islands had been used as a penal settlement by the British since the aftermath of the Indian Rebellion of 1857 , the construction of the formidable Cellular Jail commenced between 1896 and 1906. It was purpose-built to incarcerate Indian political prisoners and freedom fighters, whose numbers were growing with the independence movement.  

The architecture of the Cellular Jail was a marvel of oppressive design. It originally consisted of seven three-storey wings radiating like the spokes of a wheel from a central watchtower. This panopticon style allowed a minimum number of guards to survey all 693 (or 696 by some accounts) solitary cells. Each cell was a tiny, barren space, measuring approximately 4.5×2.7 metres, with a single small ventilator placed high up on the wall, making communication between prisoners virtually impossible. The design was such that the door of one cell faced the back wall of the wing in front, ensuring complete isolation. This systematic isolation was so severe that there are accounts of brothers being imprisoned in the same jail for years without knowing of each other’s presence. This deliberate psychological warfare was aimed at crushing the morale of the inmates.  

Life within these walls was a relentless cycle of torment. Prisoners endured solitary confinement, back-breaking forced labor – such as grinding coconut and mustard seeds in oil mills, a task even animals would struggle with – meager and often inedible food, and brutal forms of torture, including regular whippings and executions. Disease was rampant, and many succumbed to exhaustion or died as a result of horrific practices like force-feeding during hunger strikes, where milk was poured down tubes inserted into their windpipes, leading to drowning. Freedom fighters like Vinayak Damodar Savarkar (Veer Savarkar) were among the many notable figures who endured the horrors of Kala Pani.  

The Cellular Jail ceased to operate as a prison with India’s independence in 1947. A significant earthquake in 1941 had already damaged some wings. Later, some parts were demolished to make way for a hospital. However, recognizing its immense historical significance and the sacrifices made within its walls, the remaining three wings and the central tower were declared a National Memorial in 1969 (some sources say February 11, 1979, by the Prime Minister of India). Today, it stands as a “place of pilgrimage” , a solemn reminder of the price paid for freedom. The transformation from a “torture machine” to a revered memorial underscores the profound human suffering it represents, making any eerie sensations felt there deeply connected to this historical weight.  

Myths Born from Hardship

Compared to Ross Island’s more distinct ghostly apparitions, the legends surrounding Cellular Jail are often more atmospheric, rooted in the palpable sense of sorrow and suffering that permeates the site. While specific, verifiable paranormal encounters are less commonly documented in available accounts, the jail is widely acknowledged for its “chilling history” and “ghostly legends”.  

The primary source for these beliefs is undoubtedly the unimaginable trauma endured by thousands of prisoners. The sheer intensity of pain, despair, and untimely deaths within its confines has led many to believe that the spirits of these tormented souls still linger, unable to find peace. Visitors frequently report an overwhelming sense of sadness, a heavy atmosphere, or an almost tangible “energy” of the past when walking through its corridors and cells. One visitor recounted, “touching the walls looking at the cells, the torture traps, it all fills you with sadness and gratitude for those who spent their lives or ended up dead here”. The “shrieks” and cries of agony that were once a horrific reality of daily life here seem to have seeped into the very stones, contributing to the jail’s somber reputation.  

A significant feature within the jail complex is an old Peepal tree. In the evocative Light and Sound Show held here, this tree is personified as a silent witness to all the atrocities and heroic struggles that unfolded, giving a narrative voice to the jail’s poignant memories. This storytelling technique itself helps to embody the pain and spirit of the place, making the history more emotionally resonant and perhaps contributing to the perception of it being haunted. The “haunting” of Cellular Jail, therefore, might be understood more as an emotional and historical echo – a profound sense of grief and trauma imprinted on the location – rather than frequent sightings of distinct apparitions. The “ghosts” here are, for many, the palpable weight of human suffering and the indomitable spirit of those who endured it.  

Visiting the Historic Walls of Cellular Jail

A visit to the Cellular Jail is a sobering yet essential experience for anyone wishing to understand this critical chapter of Indian history. Visitors can explore the three remaining wings of the prison, peer into the small, solitary cells, and see the cell where Veer Savarkar was confined. The central tower offers a panoramic view of the radiating wings, illustrating its panopticon design. Other significant spots include the gallows where executions took place, and the Netaji Gallery and a museum that house exhibits, photographs, and models depicting the torturous methods used on prisoners and narrating the history of the freedom struggle associated with the jail. The Swatantrya Jyot, an eternal flame, burns in honor of all the martyrs who sacrificed their lives.  

The Light and Sound Show is a highlight for many visitors. Held in the evenings, it powerfully recounts the saga of the Indian freedom struggle and the harrowing experiences of the prisoners within Cellular Jail, using a compelling interplay of lights, music, and narration. Shows are available in both Hindi and English.  

Table 2: Cellular Jail Visitor’s Guide

Note: Timings and costs, especially for the Light & Sound Show, are subject to change. It is highly recommended to verify the latest information from the official Andaman Tourism website or booking counters before your visit.

Tips for the Curious Traveller

Embarking on an exploration of Port Blair’s historical and legendary sites can be a deeply moving experience. To make the most of your journey into its intriguing past, here are a few tips:

• Best Time to Visit Port Blair: The ideal time to visit is generally between October and March, or extending into June, when the weather is pleasant with temperatures ranging from 23∘C to 31∘C. Summers (April to June) can get quite warm, with temperatures reaching up to 37∘C. It’s best to avoid the peak monsoon months, typically July to September, due to heavy rainfall and high humidity, which might disrupt travel plans.
  
• Getting to Port Blair: The most common and convenient way to reach Port Blair is by air. Veer Savarkar International Airport (Airport Code: IXZ) is well-connected with direct flights from major Indian cities like Kolkata, Chennai, and Bengaluru, with a typical flight duration of about 2 hours and 30 minutes. For a more leisurely, albeit longer journey, passenger ship services are also available from Chennai, Kolkata, and Visakhapatnam.
  
• Getting Around Port Blair: Once in Port Blair, taxis and auto-rickshaws are readily available for hire to get to various tourist spots. The Mohanpura Bus Terminus is the main hub for local buses connecting different parts of the city and its attractions. For exploring areas like Chidiya Tapu, renting a two-wheeler or a car can be a good option. Communication shouldn’t be an issue for most visitors, as English and Hindi are widely understood.
  
• General Advice: Given the amount of walking involved in exploring sites like Ross Island and Cellular Jail, comfortable clothing and sturdy walking shoes are essential. The tropical climate means it’s important to stay hydrated, so always carry a water bottle, especially during the hotter parts of the day. When visiting memorial sites like the Cellular Jail, which hold deep historical and emotional significance, it is crucial to be respectful and considerate of their past.  

Providing this general travel context helps ensure that a trip focused on these legendary sites is also comfortable and well-planned, allowing visitors to fully immerse themselves in the experience.

Essential Contacts for Your Andaman Adventure

To assist with your travel planning and for any on-ground queries during your visit to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, here are some essential contact details for the official tourism authorities:

Directorate of Tourism, Andaman & Nicobar Administration For general tourist inquiries, information on attractions, accommodation bookings, and updated details:

• Phone Numbers:
  • 03192-232694  
  • 03192-232747  
  • 03192-244013 (also listed for Dy. Director, Tourism)  
• Email Addresses:
  • For general help and grievances: touristhelpdeskandamans[at]gmail[dot]com  
  • For accommodation queries/bookings: accomodation6[at]gmail[dot]com  

These contacts can be invaluable for verifying the latest timings, entry fees, show schedules, and transport availability, as these details can sometimes change.

Emergency Helpline Numbers: It’s always wise to have emergency contacts handy:

• Police: 100  
• Ambulance: 03192 232102  
• Fire: 101  
• Disaster Management: 1070 / 03192 238881  

Having these official contacts ensures that travellers can access reliable information and assistance, contributing to a smoother and more informed journey as they explore the captivating Andaman Islands.

The Enduring Allure of Port Blair’s Haunted Past

The haunted legends of Port Blair, particularly those clinging to the weathered stones of Ross Island and the solemn corridors of Cellular Jail, continue to draw and fascinate visitors from around the globe. This enduring allure stems not just from a quest for the paranormal, but from a deeper human desire to connect with the past in a tangible, evocative way.  

On Ross Island, the dramatic spectacle of colonial grandeur reclaimed by wild, tenacious nature creates an atmosphere thick with mystery. The stories of ghostly British officers or curses born from colonial exploitation are, in essence, folk narratives attempting to give voice to the island’s turbulent history – its rise as the “Paris of the East,” its wartime occupation, the devastation of the earthquake, and its eventual abandonment. These legends transform the ruins from mere decaying structures into story-filled landscapes where the past feels palpably present.  

At Cellular Jail, the experience is different yet equally profound. Here, the “haunting” is less about specific apparitions and more about the overwhelming weight of human suffering and sacrifice that the very walls seem to exude. The tales of unseen presences or the chilling energy felt by visitors are often direct emotional responses to the knowledge of the extreme brutality and unwavering courage that defined life and death within ‘Kala Pani’. The legends here serve as a conduit for empathy, allowing visitors to connect with the profound sacrifices made by freedom fighters on a level that historical texts alone might not achieve.  

Together, these sites offer more than just a glimpse into history; they offer an encounter with its echoes. The stories, whether rooted in verifiable fact, local folklore, or the power of human imagination shaped by extraordinary circumstances, provide a unique and compelling lens through which to explore the Andaman Islands. They invite travellers to listen closely to the whispers of the past that still resonate through these remarkable places, encouraging a journey of respectful exploration into a deeper, more poignant layer of island history. The blend of rich historical narratives, the visual drama of ruins against tropical beauty, and the profound human stories of resilience and sorrow ensures that the haunted legends of Port Blair will continue to captivate and move those who seek them out for years to come.

Below are the quick guide to haunted legends, blending history with the supernatural stories that have made these places so mysterious.

1. The Ghosts of Ross Island

Ross Island, also known as Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island, was once the administrative headquarters of the British in the Andaman Islands. In its heyday, it was a luxurious settlement with British officers enjoying lavish bungalows, churches, and social clubs. However, after a series of tragic events, the island fell into ruin, and nature began reclaiming it.

The Legend

People believe that the spirits of British soldiers and officers still roam the ruins of Ross Island. Visitors and staff have reported seeing shadowy figures wandering through the overgrown buildings, especially near the old church and cemetery. Footsteps, faint whispers, and eerie laughter are said to echo in the air, especially at dusk. Some say that they have seen ghostly figures dressed in colonial attire vanish into thin air.

A Chilling Encounter

Local guides often share the story of a night watchman who was patrolling the island many years ago. He claimed to have heard footsteps following him even though no one else was on the island. When he turned around, he saw a pale figure of a British officer standing under a tree, only for it to disappear moments later. The experience was so frightening that the watchman reportedly refused to work on the island after dark.

Reality Check

While there’s no evidence of paranormal activity, Ross Island’s eerie atmosphere, decaying structures, and overgrown trees create a naturally spooky vibe. If you visit at sunset, it’s easy to feel a sense of mystery in the air. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the island’s haunting beauty is undeniable.

• Entry Fee: ₹50 per person
• Ferry Ride: ₹200 – ₹300 (round trip)
• Tips: Visit the island early to explore the ruins and museum without rushing. The last ferry back to Port Blair departs around 3:00 PM.

2. The Tragic Spirits of the Cellular Jail

The Cellular Jail, also called “Kala Pani” (Black Water), is one of India’s most significant historical monuments. Built by the British in the late 19th century, the jail was used to imprison Indian freedom fighters. The conditions were brutal—prisoners were isolated in solitary cells, subjected to hard labor, and tortured mercilessly.

With such a dark history, it’s no surprise that many believe the jail is haunted by the spirits of those who suffered and died there.

The Legend

According to local lore, the souls of prisoners who died in the jail have never left. Visitors have reported hearing chains rattling, muffled cries, and sobs echoing through the corridors. Some have felt sudden cold spots or a sense of being watched, particularly near the execution room and the tower where prisoners were monitored.

During the light and sound show held in the evening, some guests have described feeling overwhelmed by sadness, as if the pain of the prisoners is still present in the jail walls.

A Spine-Chilling Story

One of the most famous stories involves a tourist who visited the jail late in the afternoon. As he explored one of the solitary cells, he heard a faint voice whispering in Hindi, “You are not alone.” Thinking it was part of the audio guide, he ignored it, only to realize later that his guide was turned off. The experience left him shaken, and he quickly left the premises.

Reality Check

While there’s no scientific proof of paranormal events, the Cellular Jail holds deep emotional and historical significance. Walking through its dark, empty corridors can feel eerie, especially when you think about the unimaginable suffering endured by the prisoners. The architecture of the solitary cells, designed to prevent any communication between inmates, adds to the chilling atmosphere.

• Entry Fee: ₹30 per person
• Light and Sound Show: ₹150 – ₹200 per person
• Tips: Attend the light and sound show for a moving retelling of the jail’s history. Arrive early to explore the jail during daylight hours.

3. Why Are These Legends So Powerful?

The haunted stories of Ross Island and the Cellular Jail resonate deeply because they are rooted in real history. Both places witnessed immense tragedy, loss, and hardship. For many, these legends are a way of honoring the memory of those who lived and died here. They also serve as a reminder of the island’s colonial past and the sacrifices made by Indian freedom fighters.

Supernatural tales often emerge from places of intense emotional energy, and both Ross Island and the Cellular Jail have seen their share of sorrow. Whether or not you believe in ghosts, the atmosphere of these historic sites can be profoundly moving.

4. Practical Tips for Exploring Haunted Sites in Port Blair

If you’re curious about visiting these legendary sites, here are some tips to make the most of your experience:

1. Visit During Off-Peak Hours: Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for exploring without large crowds.
2. Bring a Flashlight: If you plan to explore darker areas of Ross Island or the Cellular Jail, a flashlight can come in handy.
3. Respect the History: These sites are not just tourist attractions—they are memorials to a painful past. Be respectful of their significance.
4. Don’t Wander Alone: Both sites can be disorienting due to their maze-like layouts. Stick with your group or guide.
5. Keep an Open Mind: Whether or not you believe in the supernatural, allow yourself to immerse in the stories and history of these places.

5. Other Haunted Legends in the Andamans

Apart from Ross Island and the Cellular Jail, the Andaman Islands have other mysterious tales:

• Viper Island: Known for its old gallows, this island is rumored to be haunted by the spirits of prisoners who were executed here.
• Chidiya Tapu: Locals have reported sightings of strange lights and unexplained phenomena in the dense forests of Chidiya Tapu, also known as the “Bird Island.”

6. Final Thoughts: Fact or Fiction?

The haunted legends of Port Blair may blur the line between fact and fiction, but they are an important part of the island’s heritage. These stories add an element of mystery to Port Blair’s already captivating history and offer visitors a unique way to connect with the past.

Whether you experience something supernatural or simply feel the weight of history, a visit to Ross Island and the Cellular Jail is sure to leave a lasting impression.

Have you experienced anything strange at these sites? Share your stories in the comments! Or let me know if you want more travel tips for exploring Port Blair’s historical landmarks!